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When the days run together.

December 10, 2011

First, I’m going to apologize because the start of every post is going to be; I woke up, I surfed, and it was perfect. Actually, it seems like each day is more perfect than the next, it almost doesn’t feel fair to be this lucky. This particular day was exceptional, the sun blazing overhead by 9am and the water a perfect blue-green. The light offshore winds keeping the wave faces clean and steep, allowing for late take-offs and long rides.

Surfing backside has always been a challenge for me, couldn’t tell you why, it just isn’t as easy as frontside. The wave that stood out today however, was a shoulder high backside wave that seemed as though it was set up specifically for me. My dad had just ridden a wave in and was paddling back out to the lineup. I always like catching waves when he’s on the inside so he can see me surf. Mostly because he taught me, and I like him to see what kind of monster he created. I paddled hard and felt the familiar moment I’d felt so many times before; when the wave picks you up and you are no longer the one doing the work. I stood up fast and at the last second heard my dad yell “Grab rail!” Now, let me remind you, this is a backside wave, but at that moment, barreling down the face, essentially straight at my father (don’t worry I can steer) I was sure I could do anything. I tucked in as tight as I could, reached down with my left hand, found the rail of my board, held tight and leaned into the wave. I could feel the water tickle my back as the wave stared to break and pulled in even harder sending me flying down the face. I righted myself and finished the wave till in closed out in front of me, but not before catching the break just right, sending me front flipping into the air over the back of the wave for a spectacular dismount. The actual event probably only lasted 20 seconds but I will remember that wave for a lifetime. There are no pictures to corroborate this story, but go into my head, they’re there, and will be always.

Cue mid day siesta in the hammock.

Teri woke me up from my mid day slumber to take a golf cart drive into Nosara to the supermercado. The roads here are so dusty you need to wear a bandana over your face just to breathe, leaving me looking like the palest bandito ever. I smile at people even though I’m wearing a bandana and hope they can read my eyes. It’s a 15 minute drive past colorful shack houses, the Nosara “airport” that consists of a runway, a bench, and cows. Ohhh cows. The cows here are cute, and look so soft so I make Teri promise I can try to pet them on the way back. I’m still a little kid when it comes to fuzzy things with four legs. The supermercado surprises me with a good selection of foods. Eggs are not refrigerated and literally are from the chickens out back. Papayas here are 500 colones which equal out to a dollar. A dollar! I consider eating an entire papaya a day at that point. We buy one, and are waiting for it to ripen, still.

On the way home we round a corner and see a herd of cows standing right at the fence. I insist we slow down so I can pet them and exit the golf cart while it’s still at a slow roll. I pull my bandana down so as not to scare the cow I’ve chosen as my buddy, but in retrospect, this doesn’t make any sense. He eyes me suspiciously as I approach slowly, but not too slowly because motos and cars are still flying down the dusty road making it impossible to see me crossing the street. He lets me touch his big wet nose and even gives me a little sniff but that’s as far as it goes before he decides he’s not interested. I’m content, for now.

I spend the evening taking a walk to the beach, enjoying the sunset and seeing my first scorpion. They are just as ugly and menacing in person as they seem in books. The night is spent at Honoli a local dance club, with my new friend and neighbor Jesse. Another surfer, horseback rider, girl who has moved to Costa Rica in search of paradise, or in avoidance of the “real world”. But honestly, what is the real world anyway? Funny how people come into your life right when you need them.

Another day in paradise, the best day ever. Pura Vida.

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